Repost: 3 Cheap Alternatives to Expensive Natural Hair Conditioners

Came across this interesting article on Black Girl with Long Hair. It was super informative and wanted to share!

Let’s be honest here — there is big money in the haircare industry. And at one time or another, we all fall prey to the alluring claims of “hair is 873% stronger after just one use!”, and fancy packaging touting super-ingredients and exotic oils. Many times, those dazzling products come with a hefty price tag. As a recovering product junkie, I am always looking for ways to recession-proof my haircare arsenal, and save a few bucks. I have never personally been a big believer in dropping major dough on haircare products, but I know there are many naturals who will spend upwards of $40 on a small bottle of conditioner and not bat an eyelash. Sometimes, the purchases are justified (for people who believe in utilizing exclusive, exotic, organic, silicone-free, paraben free products). Other times, we have to just concede and admit that the shampoo has been squirted in our eyes.

I’m not sure about you all, but I am a conditioner freak. Hands down, it is the product that I buy most frequently, and in the largest quantities. My hair soaks it up like crazy. Suffice it to say, conditioner is my staple product for everything — from co-washes, to leave-ins, to detangling, to deep conditioning treatments and even styling. Since I use so much, I literally cannot afford to spend $30 every two weeks on an 8oz bottle of the creamy concoction. While some of my staple products are bargain basement cheap by nature (Aussie Moist), others require me to do a little more work to get them to a desirable price point. For more information on getting expensive products for less money, click here.

Before I get started, please know that this article is guided by the following parameters:

• I live in LA. Therefore, all price points are guided by what’s available to me. Prices are based on my findings at Ulta Beauty and Target, and refer specifically to conditioners only.
• For purposes of comparison, I am basing everything on Jc’s findings on the importance of the first five ingredients in a conditioner. Sure, many of the more expensive products contain the complex chemical concoctions, exotic and arbitrary oils and extracts, but read the article here and understand why they’re more of a marketing ploy than a miracle ingredient.
• I am not suggesting that the cheaper products work better — rather that for less money, you may be able to acquire a product with a similar effect.
• The example products used are not necessarily silicone or anything else-free. But for what it’s worth, none of the products have silicones or parabens in their first 5 ingredients.

Now that we’ve gotten that out the way, let’s get down to business. For most naturals, repairing/restoring, moisture, and curl definition are some of the most highly sought performance points for conditioners and hair products. In my journey to Ulta Beauty and Target, I sought out popular expensive brands and potential, more cost-effective alternatives:

Reparative Conditioner

CAROL’S DAUGHTER Monoi Repairing Conditioner vs. L’OREAL Eversleek Silicone-Free Reparative Smoothing Conditioner

Price Point: Carol’s Daughter will cost you $20.00 for an 8.5oz bottle, while the same size of L’Oreal product is only $5.99.

Carol’s Daughter First 5: Water (Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Glycerin, Isododecane

L’Oreal First 5: Aqua (Water), Cetearyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (Sunflower Seed Oil), Behentrimonium Chloride, Glycerin

Ingredient Breakdown:

• 50 – 80% of any given conditioner is water alone.
• Cetearyl Alcohol is a blend composed mainly of Cetyl and Stearyl Alcohols — waxy/creamy fatty alcohols that act as emulsifiers and thickeners.
• Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine is a surfectant and slip-adding alternative to silicones derived from rapeseeds (read: canola oil).
• Glycerin is a humectant (absorbs and helps retain moisture)
• Isododecane is a hydrocarbon ingredient and emollient, added to products to promote spreadability.
• Sunflower Seed Oil acts as an emollient, softening agent, and contains valuable fatty acids that help prevent hair breakage.
• Behentrimonium Chloride is a surfectant/cleansing, anti-static and conditioning agent.

Why L’Oreal Wins: The Carol’s Daughter Monoi line focuses on “The rejuvenating Monoi Oil – an age-old nourishing blend of Tahitian Tiare Gardenia Flower and Coprah Coconut Oil – plus replenishing Bamboo Water and Pro-vitamin B5 [to] help fortify distressed hair against breaks and snaps“. Unfortunately, the oil blend ingredients don’t appear until 9th and 10th on the list. The Bamboo Water? 14th. Pro-vitamin B5? 20th. By the way, Carol’s Daughter has Sunflower Seed too — but listed at 19th. L’Oreal on the other hand, puts much of its advertising stock in Sunflower Seed oil, and lists the product at 3rd.

Moisturizing Conditioner

OJON Dry Recovery Hydrating Conditioner vs. SHEA MOISTURE Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner

Price Point: Ojon’s product will set you back $23.00 for 8.5oz, while $9.99 gets you 12oz of Shea Moisture.

Ojon’s First 5: Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Shea Butter, Palm Oil, Behentrimonium Chloride

Shea Moisture’s First 5: Deionized Water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Argan Oil, Coconut Oil, Behentrimonium Chloride

Ingredient Breakdown:

• Shea Butter: Emollient fat from the nut of the East or West African shea nut tree used to moisturize and soften hair.
• Palm Oil: Plant oil derived from the flesh of the palm fruit. It is an anti-bacterial, anti-oxidant oil rich in vitamins A, E, D and K.
• Argan Oil: Plant oil produced from the kernels of the argan tree. It is a Vitamin A, E and anti-oxidant rich oil that nourishes and protects hair.
• Coconut Oil: Oil extracted from the meat of coconuts. It is unique in the sense that it is one of the few oils that can penetrate the hair shaft to provide moisture. It also reduces protein loss when used as a pre-poo treatment.

Why Shea Moisture Wins: Although the first five ingredients for both products are pretty similar, Shea Moisture gets you the better deal. Ojon’s packaging states, “This rich and rapid daily moisture-proofing system with the hair-repairing power of nature’s golden elixir [Ojon oil] plus Blue Agave, Shea Butter, Jojoba Oil and Babassu Oil instantly quenches parched strands and surrounds them in an invisible aura of protection“. With the exception of shea butter and ojon (alm), all the other oils are present in negligible amounts. In fact, on a list of ingredients 14 rows long, agave doesn’t appear until the 11th row. Shea Moisture’s product gets you more bang for your buck; after water, the next three ingredients are oils.

Curl Defining Conditioner

DEVACURL One Condition vs. HERBAL ESSENCES Totally Twisted Curls

Price Point: For $18.95, you can have 12oz of DevaCurl. Or, you can get the same amount of Herbal Essences for $2.99.

DevaCurl’s First 5: Water (Aqua, Eau), Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Glycerin, Glycol Distearate

Herbal Essences’ First 5: Water, Stearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methylsulfate, Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract (Wild Cherry), Orchid Extract

Ingredient Breakdown:

• Glycol Distearate: Fatty acid compound that acts as an emollient and controls viscosity (read: thickener)
• Behentrimonium Methosulfate: Ammonium salt that acts as a conditioning agent and surfectant
• Wild Cherry Fruit Extract: Fragrant, moisturizing and conditioning extract of dried wild cherry
• Orchid Extract: Conditioning extract known for fragrant and soothing properties

Why Herbal Essences Wins: DevaCurl is “Calling all curls” with their product line, focusing solely on the niche market of textured and curly hair. With curly hair needing much more moisture and TLC than straighter hair, this line appeals to naturals as a no-brainer. But with the first 5 ingredients constituting the vast majority of any product, I am hard pressed to find a reason why this particular product stands apart from the rest and warrants a nearly $20 price tag. In fact, you may be better off with the Herbal Essences. At least some herbal-esque ingredients made it into the top 5.

The Bottom Line

Maybe you tried the less expensive products, and didn’t like the results they gave. Maybe you used them incorrectly (yes, even though you know it’s conditioner…reading the instructions on the bottle gives you the best insight into a product’s intended use). Or maybe you’re like most of us, and assumed that because a product is expensive, it contains expensive ingredients and must work well. If you discover that you’re expensive products work best for you, then keep doing what you’re doing. At the end of the day, the mantra of doing what works best for you still holds true. I am by no means suggesting that you raid your product stash, and toss out your $50 conditioner that a salesperson convinced you to buy. I just encourage everyone to do their own research — understand that sometimes, we are the victim of our own illusions. We deceive ourselves into believing that some things work, or are better because they cost more….and that isn’t always the case.

                                                                            By Christina of The Mane Objective

The original article can be found here.

1 Year Natural Anniversary + New Protective Hairstyle

I don't remember my exact Big Chop date. However, I remember cutting my hair and leaving for school the next week. So I guess the third week in August is my Natural Hair Anniversary. For back to school I knew I would be getting braids so I blew my hair out and did a rough length check.

A couple of quick lengths. I am officially collarbone length.

I was definitely feeling myself

Look Ma! I made a ponytail!

Even made bun 

The next day I got my hair braided in Box Braids. The braids took about 7 1/2 hours and costed $130. I am only semi-happy with the results. While the braids look good overall you can tell where she took shortcuts. The size of the parts of braids in my hair are extremely large in the middle of my head and she rushed the dipping process of the ends of the braids. Today, I re-dipped the ends of my hair in boiling water.

                   

Up close of Hairline

My goal is to try to keep these braids in until after midterms which is mid-October. 

Hopefully, I can make it that long.

I'm Moved In

Finally, I am completely moved in my dorm room.

   4 days packing

   4 suite-mates

   3 days of unpacking

   2 fully packed cars

+ 2 trips back home 

   countless trips to the store

_________________________

   1 memorable college year

Pictures should be up in a couple hours if my internet is reliable. 

The 411 on Henna

I know I am late, but here is the post I promised about the details on Henna!

What is Henna?

Henna, lawsonia inermis, is a plant. It is a large bush, or small tree, that grows in hot, dry climates. There is evidence from Egypt that henna was regularly used to dye hair five thousand years ago, and may have been used in Jericho as early as eight thousand years ago. Henna was used to keep hair healthy and to color gray hair. Henna leaves are harvested, dried, and powdered. When mixed with a mildly acidic liquid, henna will stain skin, hair, and fingernails reddish-orange. The lower dye content leaves are harvested, roughly powdered and sifted, and sold to the hair dye industry.

What color is Henna?

Though henna grows in many countries, henna only comes in ONE color-- a reddish -orangish color. Though there are a range of shades and intensities.

But, you use Henna and your hair is orange?

Henna is translucent and blends with the natural hair color. Therefor, if your hair is dark it will remain dark. If your hair is grey/white it will turn red/orange.

What is Body Art Quality Henna?

Body quality henna is 100% pure henna. Body art quality henna is safe to use on any type of hair-- relaxed, natural, bleached, dyed, grayed, transitioning, etc. The molecules in pure body art quality henna penetrates and bind with your hair's keratin to make the hair thick, strong, and silky.

Why is the dye content important?

The higher the dye content the stronger the Henna and the dye will be. The dye content can range from 1%- 4% lawsone dye content.

Are commercial hennas in colors (black, brunette, chestnut) Body Quality Art Henna?

No! Henna comes in one color in which you can varying shades of that color depending on your natural hair color and the application of henna. Manufactures take lower qulity henna and add toxics such as metal slats, cehmical dyes, para-phenylenediamine, etc. to create these range of colors. These are called compound hennas. Compound hennas are not Body Quality henna.Hair bleach, permanent hair color, and permanent wave solution are a disastrous combination with compound (metallic salt) henna dyes. These can result in green, purple, or totally fried hair. Body art quality henna does NOT have metals, lead, and it does NOT “coat the hair.”

How do you mix henna?

Mix henna with any acidic liquid to create a thick mashed potato consistency. Lemons, bottled lemons, grapefruit juice, vinegar, wine, some acidic teas, such as black tea may be used. I personally use orange juice just because I almost always have it in the house. Cover your henna with plastic wrap and let it sit overnight at room temperature. If you have to have it sooner, put it in a warm place. As your henna rests, it will release dye. The dye must be released from the plant leaf so it can migrate into your hair. This slow, acidic release will get you the best results. If you’re in a hurry, put it in a warm place, but NOT a hot place! Your henna will be ready in two hours. Using gloved hands (Henna will stain your nails and hands) apply the henna very thickly over your hair. When all the hair is covered and the perimeter is wiped clean wrap your head in a shower cap and plastic bag. The heat from your body will keep the henna warm and help the dye uptake.

What are the benefits of henna?

Henna is a great deep conditioner that can temporarily smooth frizzy curls, add bulk to fine strands, leaving hair strong and silky. Personally, I feel that henna makes my detangling sessions easier and faster. My Grandmother swears by the henna adding thickness to her fine strands.

**The property in Henna that dyes hair the reddish color is also the property that conditions the hair**

What type of Henna do you use?

I have only used the Jamilla Henna and Rajasthani Twilight Henna at recommendation of Curly Nikki. Both have a fairly high dye content level.

Where can I buy henna?

I have bought henna from Mehandi. My grandmother has had positive experiences with purchasing henna from Lush and Henna Sooq.

There are TONS of different henna recipes and methods. I would advise you to find one that best meets your needs. 

Source combined with general internet and youtube browsing.

I do not own any of the images used and are meant only for educational purposes.

Stay tuned on how to use receive the benefits of henna with indigo for black hair or alma  to avoid the red color....